Sarah Mower, the Chief Critic at Vogue.com, is much more than a fashion journalist. With her deep-rooted knowledge of the industry and her sharp, insightful critiques, she has become one of the most influential voices in fashion today. From championing emerging designers to advocating for the cultural relevance of fashion, Mower’s impact is felt across the industry. But what makes her such a distinctive figure in the world of fashion criticism?
Early Beginnings and Education
Sarah Mower’s fashion journey began in London, where she was born and raised. She pursued her education at the University of Leeds, where she studied English. While she didn’t initially pursue fashion, her love for writing combined with an intuitive understanding of style set her on a path to becoming one of the most respected fashion journalists in the world. Her literary background is evident in the depth of her critiques, often blending cultural references and history with fashion analysis.
The Start of a Storied Career
Mower’s career in journalism kicked off at Harper’s Bazaar, where her writing quickly gained attention for its wit and honesty. She then moved on to work for The Guardian, The Daily Telegraph, and American Vogue. However, her role at Vogue.com cemented her position as a leading fashion critic. Her pieces stand out not just for their detail but also for their ability to contextualize fashion within broader social, political, and cultural frameworks.
What makes Sarah Mower particularly unique is her eye for talent. Throughout her career, she has been an unwavering advocate for young, up-and-coming designers. In 2009, she was appointed the Ambassador for Emerging Talent for the British Fashion Council, a role that allows her to actively support and mentor rising stars. She has helped launch the careers of numerous designers, including the likes of Jonathan Anderson, Christopher Kane, and Simone Rocha.
Championing New Talent
Mower’s ability to spot talent has not gone unnoticed. Jonathan Anderson, founder of JW Anderson and creative director of Loewe, once said, “Sarah saw something in my work before anyone else did. She gave me the courage to keep pushing boundaries and to stay true to my vision.”
Her relentless support of young designers comes from her belief that the future of fashion rests in their hands. In an interview, she said, “Fashion needs new blood to stay relevant. It’s the fresh perspectives that challenge the status quo and keep the industry moving forward.” This ethos has been the backbone of her career, making her one of the most respected critics in the industry.
Case Studies: Designers Influenced by Sarah Mower
One of the most profound ways Mower has left her mark on fashion is by nurturing and advocating for young designers. Her eye for talent is legendary, and several now-famous designers owe much of their early success to her support.
Jonathan Anderson – JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson is a prime example of a designer whose career was boosted by Mower’s early recognition. Mower spotted Anderson’s potential when he was just beginning to make a name for himself in London. She praised his gender-fluid designs and boundary-pushing creativity, which helped bring him to the attention of the global fashion community. Anderson has often spoken of Mower’s impact on his career, noting how her belief in his work gave him the confidence to experiment and evolve. Today, Anderson is one of the most respected designers in both menswear and womenswear, leading his eponymous brand as well as Loewe.
Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane is another designer whose career took off thanks to Mower’s endorsement. After his graduate collection from Central Saint Martins, Mower immediately recognized his potential and began to write about him extensively. Mower’s critical support helped Kane gain attention from industry heavyweights and secure collaborations with major brands like Versace. Kane, known for his innovative use of fabrics and subversive take on femininity, has since become a key figure in British fashion, largely due to the early advocacy of Mower.
Kane once said, “Sarah has this incredible ability to see potential in a designer before anyone else. She doesn’t just understand fashion—she understands designers. She’s able to see what we’re trying to say before we’ve even fully realized it ourselves.”
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha, another rising star in British fashion, credits Mower with helping her navigate the early stages of her career. Rocha’s delicate, romantic designs, often inspired by her Irish and Chinese heritage, caught Mower’s eye early on. Mower’s ability to articulate the deeper meaning behind Rocha’s work allowed the designer to resonate with a global audience. Rocha’s use of handcraft, sustainability, and cultural storytelling has positioned her as one of the most influential designers of her generation, thanks in part to Mower’s mentorship.
Mower’s work with emerging designers goes beyond simple reviews—she plays a crucial role in shaping their careers. As Ambassador for Emerging Talent at the British Fashion Council, she not only critiques but also advises designers on how to navigate the often tumultuous fashion industry. Many of these designers have cited Mower’s unwavering support as a key factor in their success.
Her Work at Vogue.com
At Vogue.com, Mower’s reviews are known for their depth and insight. She doesn’t just report on the clothes, but on the cultural and historical contexts that surround them. Whether she’s reviewing a collection by an established designer or an emerging talent, her critiques go beyond aesthetics to examine the societal impact of fashion.
One of her most famous reviews came after Raf Simons’ debut at Calvin Klein in 2017, where she wrote, “Raf is drawing on the nostalgia of Americana, but he’s also rewriting its future. There’s a darkness in his collection that speaks to the unease of our current time. It’s fashion as cultural commentary.”
Her writing has always been more than just a description of what walked down the runway—it’s an exploration of what fashion says about who we are and where we are headed. She has the rare ability to see beyond the surface, using fashion as a lens through which to examine the world.
Industry Respect
Mower’s influence extends far beyond her written work. Her opinion is widely sought after within the fashion industry. Designers often wait anxiously for her reviews, knowing that her critiques can make or break a collection.
Simone Rocha, a designer whose career Mower has championed, has spoken about the importance of her support. “Sarah is one of the few critics who truly understands the work that goes into creating a collection. She doesn’t just judge the final product; she considers the entire process. Her words mean a lot because they come from a place of real knowledge.”
Her work has also earned her the distinction of being a member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) for services to the fashion industry. This honor is a testament to her tireless support of British fashion and her ability to inspire the next generation of designers.
Advocate for Sustainability
In recent years, Sarah Mower has also become a vocal advocate for sustainability in fashion. She understands that the industry is at a crossroads, with climate change and ethical practices becoming more central to the conversation. In her role with the British Fashion Council, she has pushed for designers to adopt more sustainable practices, recognizing that the future of fashion depends on responsible production and consumption.
“Fashion has to change, and it is changing,” she said in a 2021 interview. “Young designers today are more aware of their environmental and social impact than ever before. They’re creating new business models that prioritize sustainability, and that’s where the future lies.”
Cultural Impact
Mower’s influence extends beyond the fashion world. Her ability to weave social commentary into her fashion writing has made her an important voice in cultural criticism. Her writing on topics like gender, race, and politics as they relate to fashion has broadened the scope of fashion criticism.
In one of her articles, she wrote, “Fashion is never just about clothes. It reflects the world we live in—our aspirations, our anxieties, our identity. It’s a mirror, and we need to look closely at what it’s showing us.”
Conclusion
Sarah Mower has had a profound impact on the fashion industry, not just through her writing, but through her mentorship, advocacy, and cultural commentary. Her dedication to discovering and nurturing new talent, her ability to write about fashion in a way that is both insightful and accessible, and her passion for sustainability have cemented her as one of the most influential voices in the fashion world today.
Mower’s work reminds us that fashion is more than just a commercial enterprise—it’s a cultural force. As she continues to support emerging designers and push the industry toward a more sustainable future, her influence will undoubtedly shape the direction of fashion for years to come.
In the words of Christopher Kane, “Sarah Mower doesn’t just write about fashion; she lives it. Her passion, insight, and honesty have made her a guiding light for so many of us in the industry.”
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